Choosing a scuba diving regulator begins by purchasing the first and second stages like those shown here. You will need to also purchase in addition to these dive gauges, and an alternate air source (octopus), the BCD inflator hose can be purchased separately but this will be supplied when you buy a BCD. The general rule is the more you pay the easier the breathing.
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Rating: 4.85
does it matter if you're not using one of the holes?
dacor 950 because their isnt any others better yet
Using aqualung legend. Love it because it's ACD. stupid and clumsy friendly. Don't have to worry about water sprays or dust cap.
Make a regulator tutorial for broke peoples
I dive the A700 carbon black. I love it because it is really light and jaw fatigue is minimal or none. On long dives it's worth it's weight in gold. It's an all around great regulator.
My favorite all time regulator is the old Poseidon Odin, looks like a shower head. Costly to service, but boy, on deep deco diving, air delivery was never a problem. Later, I switched to Zeagle (Apeks rebranded them early on).
Is it worth it ro buy old regulators, i cant afford the newer stuff.
As I'm new I'm a little confused about the 3rd stage and 4th stage regulators you mentioned, can't all 1st stages add dials and a second regulator?
your comments on the balanced first stage vs. non-balanced first stages are incorrect. All first stages we use are "depth compensating", and the Apeks "over-balanced" regulator you commented on is actually "over-compensating". A non-balanced first stage does not hold IP as a function of tank pressure so the second stage breathing resistance changes as a function of tank pressure, not depth.
It's a common confusion since Apeks refers to their over-compensation for depth as "over-balancing" but it is a different type of balancing than a "non-balanced" first stage like the Scubapro MK2